Ed Koskinen


He was new to climbing in 1938 and WWII ended his rock climbing career. He lived to a ripe old age of 93. The following photos came from the Ed Koskinen collection.

Yosemite Climbing Notes’, by Richard M. Leonard
Sierra Club Bulletin, February 1941 (pp. 138, 140)

   Higher Cathedral Spire. . . . On the eleventh ascent, on June 23, 1940, John Dyer, Wm. A. Horsfall, and Edward Koskinen eliminated artificial aid at the rope traverse chimney, just above Second Base.  These are splendid accomplishments and leave only 10 feet of artificial aid at the overhang above First Base out of nearly 500 feet of very fine climbing.
. . . Lower Cathedral Spire. . . . -Eleventh ascent, July 14, 1940, John Dyer, Edward Koskinen.


The Cathedral Spires.

On Lower Cathedral Spire. The climber is John Dyer.

Higher Cathedral Spire

 Near the top of Higher Spire.

Spire summit.

Spire summit.

Lower Cathedral Spire rappel.

Pigeon Spire in the foreground, Snowpatch Spire rear left.  The first ascent of Snowpatch Spire was on this trip in August, 1940 by Raffi Bedayan and Jack Arnold.

Snowpatch–and Other Bugaboos’, by Fritz Lippmann
Sierra Club Bulletin, February 1941

     Storm reigned over the Purcell Range as sodden clouds settled over the panorama of sharp spires of the Bugaboos.  A cold rain pelted our neoprene tent, a steady rain that had been pattering down for hours.  This was hardly suspicious weather, concluded Jack Arnold, Raffi Bedayan, Ed Koskinen, and I, for a serious Sierra Club attack on what we considered America’s number one climbing problem-Snowpatch Spire.
     The rain had first greeted us at the little British Columbia town of Spillamacheen.  After thirty-three hours of strenuous driving from San Francisco, we had arrived to find the ground so damp we preferred to establish base camp in the car. . . .

The following photos are from that trip. Just getting there is tough.


Where''s the road?


Racking up.

River crossing.

The approach.