How Peaks Get Named – Don’t Ask


How Peaks Get Named – Don’t Ask

If you know where to look, and if you really care, what was to be named BHOS Dome is visible from the Mirror Lake parking area (circa 1971). In the spring of 1971, Dennis Hennek, TM Herbert, Doug Scott, and I did the first ascent of the south face – the Mugwump Wall as Scott labeled it.


It took us 1 ½ days to scale the very distinct dihedral for three pitches and then some easier climbing after veering left to a wide crack system. We rated it Grade III, 5.7, A3. Not a difficult climb, but it had a crux – that of trying to sleep though a Herbert tirade on the bivouac.

Tm Herbert did not own a down jacket. He was nurtured in Chouinard’s school of wool, but I was determined to wean him from his adamant stance - I loaned him a down sweater for the climb.

It began about midnight during some snow flurries. “Wake up, hey you guys, wake up. Hennek, kick that damn limey. Is everybody awake? I’ve actually been sleeping. This is the first time I’ve ever slept on a bivouac. Damn it, wake up and listen to me. I’ve been sleeping. This is incredible. Hennek, is Lauria still sleeping? Wake him up. Scott, wake up. I’ve actually been sleeping. Hennek, kick that rotten limey. Damn it, Scott, you don’t seem to realize … “

So it went. The next day we were back in Camp 4 and Chuck Pratt ambled up. “What did you guys do?” I described the dome and the route. He responded, “Oh, you mean that Big Hunk Of Shit!” Roper loved it, hence BHOS Dome was named.