Lunch Ledge, 1933

Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson holding the flag on top of Higher Cathedral Spire after doing the first ascent in 1934 with Richard Leonard.

Topo of the last pitch of Higher Cathedral Spire showing the piton placements during the first ascent in 1934. This page is in the Higher spire notebook that was donated to the Yosemite Climbing Association in 1993 by Richard Leonard.

Leonard, Eichorn and Robinson spent the Winter of 1933/1934 planning for further attempts on Higher and Lower Cathedral Spires, this included purchasing pitons and carabiners from Sporthaus Schuster in Germany and using photos taken by friends to measure angles of the Spires to determine the best potential route.

Jules Eichorn on First Base at the top of the first pitch. — Jules Eichorn on *First Base* at the top of the first pitch.

Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson belaying in a tree.

The cover of the Higher Cathedral Spire notebook donated by Richard Leonard in 1993.

Bestor Robinson, Richard Leonard and Jules Eichorn on the summit of Higher Spire during the first ascent in 1934.

Looking down the steep and exposed Northwest Face during the first ascent.

Higher Cathedral Spire 1934

Lost Arrow Spire, 1946

Warren Harding belaying Jack Davis during the first ascent in 1955. (Copy) — Warren Harding belaying Jack Davis during the first ascent in 1955.

Warren Harding leading on the first ascent of the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock. Photo by Bob Swift. (Copy) — Warren Harding leading on the first ascent of the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock. Photo by Bob Swift.

East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. 1955

Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome

Jim Donini/First ascent of Basketcase. 1970

"Up rope I'm not moving!" First ascent of Basketcase.

When I first showed up in the Valley in 1970 the Spring monsoon was going full bore. Generator Crack had just been discovered and being one of the few overhanging pieces of rock in the Valley, it was the perfect place to get some exercise. My first time there I couldn't get up the damn thing, but the monsoon persisted and we soon began making daily pilgrimages. The days rolled on wet and cold and Generator Crack was tamed. First right side in, then left side in followed by right side in solo and on and on. Eventually I got to where I was soloing it with running shoes on. Finally the monsoon ended and damn- I could go wide.

A couple of years later I drove into Camp 4 and immediately bumped into TM Herbert. TM, in a whispered voice, told about his new secret project. "Donini, I've discovered one of the last good lines in the Valley. “I've been looking at it with my birding binoculars, let's do it." TM was pretty guarded about where this climb was, he told me to meet him the next day and that we would hike up and spend the night and do the climb the next day. "Don't worry," he said, "I really checked it out, I'll bring the gear, I know just what we need." FAMOUS LAST WORDS

The next day we started up the endless switchbacks leading up out of Mirror Lake. Eight long, hot, dusty miles later we came across a trail sign that said: Porcupine Flats 2 miles. TM looked at the sign, his jaw dropped, and he sprawled on the trail and began beating the ground with his fists: we now new a better way to the climb.
TM’s plan was to bivouac above a steep, heavily wooded gully that led to the base of the climb. Good idea....except for the mosquitoes. TM immediately fell asleep, seemly impervious to the hovering swarms of mosquitoes. Not me, I spent the entire night slapping the damn things, and I nearly near took out my frustration on a blissfully sleeping TM with the piton hammer that lay nearby.

TM woke up in good humor and led us down the brush-choked gully to the climb. I'll never forget the look on TM's face when he looked up at the line, his jaw dropped as he sheepishly emptied his pack of the hardwear he had brought. Out fell knife blades, lost arrows, even a few rurps and precious few nuts hand sized or larger. This was way before Friends became available. Unfortunately, the impressive crack system that rose above us had a lot of very difficult looking wide sections. TM apologized for his mistake as I was suggesting he get new binoculars and that he have his eyes tested. Having endured a hot, dusty hike and a nearly sleepless night, I was in no mood to bail without giving it a try.

TM wasn't comfortable with wide cracks so the sharp end fell to me. There were some interesting run outs and a lot of back cleaning of the few pieces that we had that worked, but everything went okay until the crux pitch. As I recall this section was quite steep and it steepened even more near the top. I ended up doing some more sketchy back cleaning and a lot of strenuous climbing up and down to get the gear I needed. I never lowered off of a piece because I didn't think it was fair and also, frankly, I didn't completely trust some of my placements to hold body weight. Finally wasted by my efforts, I gave in, did a single point of aid and finished the pitch. What followed gave me the line that as a Medicare climber I now use as my only climbing command. TM, eyes wide, reluctantly started up the pitch. A fierce struggle ensued followed by weak "up rope" from TM. "What was that," I said, and a more forceful "up rope" floated up from below. I pulled the rope in tight, another "up rope." I pulled the rope tighter, "up rope" again, louder a little more desperate. "TM, I'm pulling the rope as tight as I can." The final plaintive plea from TM, "up rope, I'm not moving."

TM recovered nicely and led a steep, fingery near the top. Back in Camp 4 I ran into Bridwell and Klemons and made the tactical mistake of telling them about the easier approach from Porcupine Flats and also exactly what gear was needed...duh! The rest is history.

Jim Bridwell working on a topo of the route.

Fred East in back, Jim Bridwell and Jay Fiske on the Continental Shelf. Note the hammock with foam and spreader bar.

Fred East resting during the first ascent of the Pacific Ocean Wall, 1975..jpg

Jay Fiske jugging in space during the first ascent in 1975.

Pacific Ocean Wall

Lower Spire from Higher. Richard Leonard, Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson on the summit of Lower Cathedral Spire during the first ascent on Labor Day weekend, 1934. While the men are climbing Lower Cathedral Spire, three men, Herbert B. Blanks, E — Lower Spire from Higher. Richard Leonard, Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson on the summit of Lower Cathedral Spire during the first ascent on Labor Day weekend, 1934.
While the men are climbing Lower Cathedral Spire, three men, Herbert B. Blanks, Elliot Sawyer, and Boyton S. Kaiser complete the second ascent of Higher Cathedral Spire
using the pitons left in place by the first asent team four months
previously. The Higher Spire team take pictures of Leonard, Eichorn,
and Robinson on the top of Lower Cathedral Spire before descending.

Lower Cathedral Spire topo showing the crux of the route and the piton placements used on the Flake pitch during the first ascent on Labor Day 1934. This page was in the Lower Cathedral Spire notebook that Richard Leonard donated to the Yosemite Climbing Association in 1993.

Bestor Robinson climbing and Richard Leonard belaying on the crux Flake pitch during the first ascent of Lower Spire, 1934.

Bestor Robinson nearing the top of the Flake pitch.

Jules Eichorn sitting on the summit. Note the hemp rope by his feet.

Sketch is drawn by Doris Leonard after the first ascent in 1934

A letter written by Tom Rohrer describing his retrieval of a Stoveleg piton that had been dropped in a crack on the Folly.

Aluminum angle from the Nose first ascent Donated by George Whitmore.

Capstan with Warren Harding prusiking loads up in the background. The capstan was used to haul the Doltcart laden with supplies up to Dolt Tower.

Mark Powell leading the Stoveleg cracks in 1957 during the first effort.

Copy of Batso Drawing by Sheridan Anderson

Letter written by Warren Harding to Rich Calderwood with directions to a party.

Warren Harding signing the El Capitan summit register after the first ascent. November 12, 1958.

hardingimage5Warren Harding on the summit of El Capitan during the cleanup 2 weeks after the first ascent in 1958.

Ken Yager and Warren Harding talking at Warren's birthday party at the Stumps in 1993. Photo by Errett Allen

Rich Calderwood signing the summit register during the cleanup two weeks after the first ascent. Strangely enough, the summit register tree was still standing when Harding, Merry and Whitmore completed the route. Photo Wayne Merry collection.

Looking down the Nose at Rich Calderwood during the cleanup 2 weeks after the first ascent in 1958.

Looking down the Nose at Rich Calderwood during the cleanup 2 weeks after the first ascent in 1958..jpg

Nose First Ascent

Nose First Ascent

Dave Schultz starting the Walking the Plank (4th) pitch..jpg

Dave Schultz high up on the Yardarms pitch..jpg

Dave Schultz leading the Yardarms (5th) pitch of Karma during the first ascent in 1986.Photo by Dave Schultz..jpg

Jim Campbell belaying and Dave Schultz leading..jpg

Jim Campbell drilling a belay bolt at the end of the Walking the Plank (4th) pitch. The Yardarms (crux pitch) is next with an endless dike beyond.Ken Yager photo..jpg

Ken Yager at the belay on the start of the 5th pitch called the Yardarms..jpg

Ken Yager following near the end of the endless dike. He is very thankful that the angle is lessening and the dike is widening..jpg

Ken Yager high on the dike. We followed this dike system diagonally for 6 pitches..jpg

Karma

First Ascent Sentinel Falls

I found these old photos from the FA of upper Sentinel Falls.
The quality is marginal but they are of some interest. For those of you who don't know Sentinel Falls is a 2,000ft or so waterfall just west of Sentinel Rock. It has an interesting history as an ice climb. Kevin Worrall, Jim Orey and I did the FA of the upper falls in Dec. 1974. This was the first real ice climb done in the Valley. Later, the lower section was climbed... by who first I am not sure. The entire falls has only been climbed once in a stupendous effort by (I believe) the late great Walt Shipley and Kevin Fosburg. (Please chime in KF) Our ascent was a fun adventure for the three of us--ice novices all. Charlie Porter first pointed out the climb to me in the spring of 1974. The previous winter Charlie had climbed some ice flow in the meadows and was interested in other potential ice climbs in the Yosemite including the Widows Tears. I had always had a interest in alpine climbing (as many of my generation did) stemming from my introduction to climbing through reading the history of the classic ascents of the Alps and other great ranges. Some element of adventure always seemed to be missing from my Yosemite climbs on the Valley's perfect sunny granite. There was a renaissance under way in the sport of ice climbing. Chouinard, among others, was busy reinventing the tools of the trade. The concept of climbing water ice as a sport unto itself was becoming a reality. I believe Jello and Mike Weiss made their ascent of Bridalviel Falls at this time. I was eager to participate and in the summer of 74 bought a collection of ice gear from a climbing buddy of mine in the bay area. As it came to pass one sunny December day in the Valley Kevin, Jim and I were all sitting atop the large Yellow pine in Leidig meadow. We had a perfect view of the Falls and formed our plan there. We would hike up through the forest and talus below the Falls, traverse up a ledge system leading to a parallel gully to the west, ascend this until we could traverse back to the upper falls. It all went according to plan. We made our way up the approach, which took us a day, and bivvied on the ridge separating the two gullies. The next day we continued the approach and soon had our first glimpse of the climb. I was so excited. I had never seen anything like this. A frozen waterfall!! What could be cooler than that? We made our way to the base. There was this little mini bergschund at the base forming a perfect little mouth with icicle teeth. None of us had every climbed anything like this before and we didn't really know where to start. We pounded in a warthog, clipped in a rope and all gave it a tug. It didn't pull out, so figuring the pro was good, I started up the first pitch. My climbing attire was a bit lacking. I was clad in corduroy bell bottom jeans (hey, it was the seventies)with no gators. I gingerly made my way up the near vertical ice for about fifty ft taking my first chance to exit onto the rock and belay. Jim followed this pitch first and then led a short steep section to an obvious bowl. Kevin must have led the next pitch and then I was on the lead again. By the time I finished leading the last steep section it was dark. Kevin and Jim followed. I remember being so cold at the belay, tied to this pathetic scrawny pine sapling. I was shivering away in the shade of the bright winter moonlight believing that as soon as the moonlight reached me I would warm up. We endured our second bivvy here. It was one of the longest coldest bivouacs of my climbing life, right around the winter solstice. Finally, dawn arrived and we made our way up the last low angle pitch to the Valley rim. We post-holed east under Sentinel Dome and then headed for the Four Mile trail which took us the Valley, sunshine, and food. Shortly there after Jim took leave of us and Kevin and I turned our sights to the obvious encore--the Widows Tears.

Mark Chapman