EDITION 05 - APRIL 8, 2025
Your window into the stories, history, and ongoing work to preserve Yosemite’s climbing legacy.
A Note from the Editor
This week, we speak with Sonnie Trotter—Yosemite big-wall free climber from Canmore, Alberta—about his upcoming book, Uplifted: The Evolution of a Climbing Life, where he shares his journey “from farm kid to gym climber to El Cap.” The title will be released May 13 through Patagonia Books. “There were so many stories, but I picked the most meaningful ones,” he says. Trotter will present at this year’s Yosemite Facelift and sign copies.
Next week, we’ll feature Southern award-winning filmmaker and photographer Andrew Kornylak and discuss his new book, Spare These Stones, set for release this fall. “Even for the non-climber, this book is filled with real stories of community and social connection,” he says. As for why Yosemite climbers will get a kick out of this project, “I think if you live in California and visit Yosemite regularly, you’re accustomed to the visuals of big walls, giant gorges, and sweeping geological history. It’s visually striking to encounter landscapes in the South that echo Yosemite’s grandeur yet offer such distinct and different climbing experiences.” The book—two years in the making—captures three decades of climbing culture through his unique lens. Read more about Kornlyak here.
Chris Van Leuven
Editor, Yosemite Climbing Association News Brief
YosemiteClimbing.Org
Photo: Sonnie Trotter collection
Coming to Bookstores This Spring: Sonnie Trotter’s ‘Uplifted’
I see myself enjoying climbing instead of surviving a suffer-fest
Canmore, Alberta – Due out on May 14, 2025, Uplifted: The Evolution of a Climbing Life is Sonnie Trotter’s collection of stories told in campfire style. As Trotter mentioned during our recent call, the book chronicles his journey “from farm kid to gym climber to El Cap.” In his memoir, Trotter reflects on the risks and demands of climbing, shares memorable ascents from his 30-year career (he’s age 45), his partnerships with the world’s best climbers, and the challenges of balancing his dedication to climbing with family life.
Trotter has contributed dozens of notable first ascents (many still unrepeated) throughout Canada and internationally, up to 5.14d. Notably, he freed El Capitan in 13 hours—leading every pitch—via his Pineapple Express three-pitch variation to El Niño (5.13b/c). After several seasons developing the variation with Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell supported Trotter’s one-day ascent via Jumars and carried a pack with supplies.
Career highlights also include the first free ascent of the renowned Cobra Crack (5.14b), located in Squamish, B.C., and The Path, a 5.14a R-rated climb at Lake Louise, Alberta, which was initially bolted but freed by Trotter using traditional gear. Other standout ascents include the first trad send of the East Face (5.13d R) of the Monkey Face at Smith Rock, Oregon, the second ascent of The Prophet on El Cap (5.13d R), and the second ascent of Rhapsody (5.14c R) at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland. Since 2004, he’s climbed multiple 5.14d sport routes, including the recent ascent of Spirit Quest in June 2024.
His extensive climbing résumé continues with ascents like the 28-pitch 5.13a Logical Progression in Mexico, completed with Honnold in 15 hours, and the trilogy of Canada’s hardest big walls on Castle Mountain, Mount Louis, and Mount Yamnuska, each rated 5.14. (Read my Red Bull story on Sasha DiGiulian’s ascent of these routes here.)
“This is a refreshing memoir, fast, fun, and joyous,” Honnold says about Uplifted. At 208 pages and published by Patagonia, Trotter summarized his work, saying, “The subtitle ‘Evolution of a Climbing Life’ reflects how everyone evolves—in climbing, careers, anything. Climbing has uplifted my life, inspired by characters, community, and the mountains.”
When I wrote about Trotter for Red Bull in 2018, I said, “For 20 years, Sonnie Trotter has pushed the limits of trad, sport, and bouldering, making a living as a professional climber, coach, and guide.” Trotter says he was raised on a 100-acre farm, played ice hockey in Ontario, and enjoyed snowboarding and mountain biking. He began climbing at age 15, trained daily and achieved his first 5.14 ascent within two years. In his first year of trad climbing, he rapidly progressed from 5.12d to 5.13d.
During our recent chat, the husband and father of two mentioned he’s balancing “life’s chaos with two kids in jiu-jitsu, dance, and birthdays. But our kids are getting older, and I finally feel that we have breathing room again.”
“I’m jonesing to climb, but it’s winter in Canmore,” he added. He also says he misses California and that his last trip there was in 2018 when he completed Pineapple Express. Since then, “I live vicariously through others’ videos.” However, relying solely on videos to maintain his Yosemite stoke will change this fall when Trotter visits the Valley to speak at Facelift and sign books in late September.
“I’ll do a mini book tour in spring, then a bigger one in fall—just hanging with climbers, telling stories. If Tommy’s in Tahoe, maybe we’ll organize an event; it’s all about fun.”
Reflecting on his writing process, Trotter shared that it began by meeting with Gripped editor Brandon Pullan to discuss workflow. He recorded voice memos on long drives, some of which made it into the book while others did not. Eventually, he committed fully to writing, pouring words onto the page. He shared the emotional rollercoaster during the process, beginning with “I’ll never write a book,” moving to “This could be fun!” and then to “Oh God, what am I doing?” Then, choosing what to cut proved challenging. “There were so many stories, but I picked the most meaningful ones,” he says.
Uplifted will be available on May 14 through Patagonia channels.
Photo: Sonnie Trotter collection
PHOTO OF
THE WEEK
Unknown climber on The Great Escape (4 pitches, 5.11d), Chapel Wall, Yosemite. Photo: Chris Van Leuven