Your window into the stories, history, and ongoing work to preserve Yosemite’s climbing legacy.

A Note from the Editor

After a few weeks of promoting authors and new books, we’re mixing things up. We’re focusing on the news since this is a Yosemite climbing newsletter.

First off, on April 18, the San Francisco Chronicle published Molly Burke’s story, “Yosemite hikers to face chaos as key campground closes amid DOGE cuts.” Burke wrote, “The Yosemite Valley backpackers campground, which is a common starting point for visitors hiking the John Muir Trail, will be moved ‘temporarily’ to six sites at Camp 4. The [Park Service] said the replacement site would have limited space and encouraged visitors to make ‘alternate lodging options.’” Burke continues, “The change comes amid uncertainty with Yosemite’s camping reservations and significant cuts to the National Park Service. The administration of President Donald Trump—and the Department of Government Efficiency spearheaded by billionaire Elon Musk—has cut staffing and resources at national parks.”

In SF Gate on April 11, Ashley Harrell wrote, “Yosemite scientists now forced to clean bathrooms,” adding, “Delays in seasonal hiring mean Yosemite staffers are being temporarily reassigned.” In her story, Ken Yager of the YCA said, “I’m curious about how far up the chain of command this goes. Is the superintendent expected to clean toilets? I don’t want to insult anybody, but I’m curious. Are there division chiefs doing it?”

In Facelift news, Katie Getz, Director of Programs and Development for YCA, told me this morning (April 21), “Facelift dates: September 24-28. Registration will open mid-May. I am uncertain about camping availability right now but hope to have more information when registration opens,” which she anticipates will be May 5.

This week, we chatted with Yosemite big wall climber, first ascensionist, mountain guide, and search and rescue team member Lance Colley about his observations in the park during the busy Easter weekend.

Chris Van Leuven

Editor, Yosemite Climbing Association News Brief

YosemiteClimbing.Org

BREAKING NEWS!

Protect & Resist: National Parks Week of Action Spotlight

This week, we launched Protect and Resist: A Limited Series — our National Parks Week campaign to support Yosemite through education, stewardship, and community action.

**Take Action:**
**Sign the Petition** to urge Congress to protect Yosemite’s future.
👉 **Sign Now**
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Let’s protect what matters and resist what harms — for Yosemite and for future generations.
— *Yosemite Climbing Association*

Lance Colley: YOSAR Member and YMS Guide Talks the State of the Park

With 37 El Cap ascents under his belt, four speed records, and a giant new route on Middle Cathedral, Colley is in Yosemite every chance he gets.

It was a gear-ripping fall high on El Cap in 2021 that broke Lance Colley’s back. The copperhead he was standing on blew, three beaks pulled, and the fourth piece below unclipped from the rope. He ended up far below the anchor but got back on lead and finished the pitch. When he and Tyler Karow topped out that day on Sunkist, they noted they’d just set the speed record at 15:57. Afterward, back pain plagued Colley, and doctors put him in a back brace.

I asked him if, years later, his injury slowed him down.

“That slowed me down a little, but I think I still climb pretty fast,” he says. Colley shares that he’s already climbed El Cap three times this season, including Grape Race, Virginia, and Dihedral Wall, all completed in a push, though without setting new records. His lifetime tally includes 37 El Cap ascents and four speed records. In 2024, he and former climbing ranger Brandon Adams established the 2,000-foot 5.12c A3+ route Gaia on Middle Cathedral, with the lower section going free and the upper section requiring hard aid. This year, Colley and Adams plan to return and establish variations to the aid sections, hoping the climb will eventually go entirely free.

Regarding new routing potential in the park, Colley says, “Every year there’s amazing routes being put up. They’re not the corners and crack routes you see from the road. They’re face climbing and connecting small features. There’s tons of potential.”

This is Colley’s third year as a guide at the Yosemite Mountain School (YMS), where he also responds to Search and Rescue (YOSAR) calls. This past Easter weekend in Yosemite, his phone rang for three separate carry-outs on Saturday afternoon, including one involving a person who’d broken their leg at Lower Yosemite Falls. With his packed schedule guiding and responding to rescues, he’s slammed. “It’s nice to have a day off too, you know,” he says. Colley adds that it’s early in the season, and both YMS and YOSAR are currently understaffed, which is common this time of year. Fortunately, he expects YOSAR to be fully staffed next week, with YMS following shortly after.

Since Colley, an El Portal resident, has boots on the ground in Yosemite, I asked if he’s observed the park being in disarray due to DOGE cutbacks and the currently suspended reservation system.

“Have you ever driven past Camp 4 and there’s just cars parked all over the place and in the trees and stuff?” he asks me. “It was like that almost all the way down to the El Cap picnic area.” On the bright side, he says he hasn’t experienced long lines at the west entrance but adds, “I see the same two employees there almost every day at the entrance station. They just can’t work 12 hours, so they’re leaving early. You drive out of the park at like 3 pm, and no one’s there. I think it’s a bummer.”

When asked about park bathrooms, Colley notes they’ve been well maintained. However, regarding staff shortages, he says, “Almost every weekend I’ve been getting calls for search and rescues or carry-outs because of limited resources.”

He’s noticed a spike in visitation as well. “The neighbors I’ve chatted with in El Portal feel like it’s busier. We all relate it to pre-COVID numbers. That’s what we feel is happening—some of the biggest visitation years ever.

Despite rising visitor numbers and the reservation system still being on hold, Colley believes climbers will adapt. “I think climbers can work around it, you know, we’re resilient,” he says.